Day 56 Saturday 28 October Bayi to Lhasa, Tibet

A long day’s drive as the place our itinerary had indicated we would stay doesn’t have any accommodation for foreigners. We decide to push thru to Lhasa, driven by visions of pizza and coffee. The drive is fine, good (for china anyway) roads, but get stopped at a checkpoint where they give us a docket with the time on it which we have to present at the next checkpoint 250km away. Whilst this isn’t a problem and the cops are very friendly and shake our hands with broad smiles, it means we have to drive very slowly so that we don’t get to the next check point too soon. The irony is that for the first time in a week the road is capable of 100km/hr but the speed limit is only 30km. Whilst no one appears to pay much attention to speed limits we have already been caught in one radar trap and don’t want to risk another.

Fortunately there is a detour to a beautiful lake, Draksum-tso, with a temple which adds a couple of hours and some C7 watch towers or forts to inspect. The towers, of which there are some 140 in the valley are a bit of a mystery as to their purpose, slate towers maybe 20-30m tall over 1400 years old. Draksum Tso (lake) is a beautiful turquoise colour and we climb breathlessly to a high viewing platform to admire the surrounding mountains, amid snow flurries. Then we visit a temple on an island accessed by log rafts which has a single monk.

Then it’s back to following the Nyang Chu river flowing quickly through orchards and pine forests before climbing another 5000m pass, the Mi-la and down to the Kyi-chu valley which flows in a very wide braided course to Lhasa. Climbing the pass there are encampments of nomadic yak herders with brown felt tents as well as Land Cruisers and motorbikes. As we approach Lhasa driving into the western setting sun, the scenery changes to broad rounded grass covered hills with dustings of snow, yellow poplars lining the road and the multiple courses of the Kyi-Chu like burnished gold braid amongst the pebbly valley floor. Looking back the hills glow in the setting sun and the sky and river are an intense cobalt blue, which is the same blue Tibetans use to decorate roof beams.

Frightening the goats, piglets and occasional child we speed into Lhasa before its fully dark and check into the Yak Hotel which is a major improvement on those of the past week. The room is comfortable, they actually give us the remote to switch on the heating and there’s hot water and internet. Whats more there’s a dutch/American/Tibetan run restaurant with Aussie wine, enchillas and steak Dianne (all yak of course but who’s complaining).
Weather 4, Sunny
Distance today 501km
Distance from start 12,760km
Scary Road Index: low