Day 61 Thurs 2 November, Gyantse to Shigatse, Tibet

We are given a late mark – breakfast at 9.30! Set off at 10.30 for views of the Dzong (C14 hilltop fort involved in 1904 battle against British expeditionary force, trying to force Tibet to open its borders to trade) and then to Pelkor Chede Monastery and Gyantse Kumbum both built in C15 and destroyed in Cultural Revolution, now restored and very impressive. Kumbum means 100,000 images and looks like a huge chedi which you can go inside to see aforementioned images, the whole topped with gold dome/spire.

Retrace our route back to Shigatse and check into Tenzin Hotel with views of massive reconstruction of Dzong (fort, replication of Potala) by Chinese, who much to disgust of Tibetans, are using concrete instead of traditional stone.
Pu Chung off to organise our next lot of permits, so we are let off the leash to go to Tashilhunpo Monastery, founded in 1447 by first Dalai Lama and since become the seat of the Panchem Lamas. It was only slightly damaged, so it is interesting to see assembly halls, chapels, murals, etc in original , ancient condition. It has already had its annual (messy) repainting job done. The centrepiece is a huge, gold statue of the future Buddha, Maitreya, said to be largest in the world. Also impressive tombs of past Panchem Lamas, including 10th who died in Shigatse in 1989, after complaining to China about the treatment of Tibetans. Some suggest suspicious circumstances. The 11th resides in Beijing under the auspices of the government and visits Shigatse for one month per year.

Back to hotel for quick drink before dinner in freezing restaurant – Tibetans prefer to dine in all their outdoor clothing, rather than close doors and turn on heating. They are charming people but cannot be convinced that it is cold as winter only starts officially next month. ( Currently +1C)

Weather 0.5, Sunny
Distance today 95km
Distance from start 13,442km
Scary Road index: v low