Day 80 Monday 20 November, Ravangla to Pelling, Sikkim, India

A repeat of previous day, with more up and down twisty roads and cart tracks in the mist. I2 claims the scenery is still extremely beautiful despite not being able to see the mountains which is the only reason to come to Sikkim but I1 reserves his opinion as he has his eyes closed most of the time.

The hotel manager, a young Sikkimese takes us to the nearby Palchen Choeling monastery at Ralang where we are blessed by the Rimpoche, a big honour and given white scarves (katas). We meet the manager’s brother who is a young monk there and shortly due to go to a cave for 3 year’s meditation. (not sure if he’ll be allowed to take the pictures of David Beckham and Brittany Spears that he currently has in his “cell”). Then we take part in a ceremony attended by around 250 locals, where the Rimpoche wears a special hat. He has to hold on to this whilst its on his head as otherwise he (and it) will fly away. He only wears this once a year and when not in use its kept in locked in a special box to prevent it flying away. There’s lots of horn blowing and toneless chanting and we receive blessed rice which we throw, representing the rice which was thrown from Tibet by the founder of the order and landed on this spot. We also are given a cup of yak butter tea, not quite the Eucharist but along those lines.

The manager’s family is very influential locally, having provided the land for the monastery and is its major sponsors. His grandmother is a ‘fairy’ or Tara, a sort of female Buddha who’s achieved enlightenment. In between discussions of Buddhist philosophy he questions us about the cost of BMWs and sings Dido songs. It’s shame we missed the Chaam dances which culminated with the procession of all the monks in costumes and frightening masks, but do see some of these in a room in the monastery.
Then its on to Pelling across more valleys and ranges, where we arrive in time for the 5pm power cut, which unfortunately doesn’t stop the band playing at the 2nd Kanchenzhonga tourist festival, a rather soggy and slightly sorry affair taking place in tents around the soccer field. We buy some local gouda cheese and a Sikkimese Lepcha hat to add to our hat collection and check into the Norbu Ghang hotel, with superb views of the mountains, apparently.

Weather 8.5C Misty
Distance today:77km
Distance from start: 15,115km