Day 93 Sunday 3 December, Tolkha to Ghandruk,Nepal

A steep descent into valley, across the Mardi river then long climb up to Ghandruk, a large village perched at 2000m high on ridge overlooking Annapurna and Mt Fishtail or Machhapuchhre looking like the Matterhorn. The climb is thru terraces with millet, corn and bright yellow mustard (or perhaps canola) flowers. We surprise ourselves by how rapidly we gain height, reaching the ‘Trekkers Inn’ by 2.30. This lodge has hot showers – amazingly luxurious. On our way up we are initially puzzled by the sound of approaching bells which turns out to be a mule caravan heading down the path. There are around 20 mules laden with everything from sacks of potatoes to empty gas cylinders. Apart from the porters slogging up the hills with baskets which are supported by straps around the forehead, these caravans are the main source of transport of goods in this region are we have left motorable roads many kms below.