Day 151 Thursday 15 February 2007 Saidu Sharif, Swat, Pakistan

We visit the Swat museum down the road from the hotel which has an interesting collection of Buddhist relics from the many stupas and archaeological sites around the region, then we find the two nearest ones at Butkara which have only been excavated in recent years. They are quite impressive with elaborate carvings dating back from C5th BC, including owls and one of cupid. The sites are hidden away down lanes thru nearby villages and we are helped by scores of children who materialise from nowhere whenever we stop the car.

In the afternoon we explore the upper swat valley. Its quite wintery with snow on the hillsides about 200m above the river. The valley is full of fruit trees on terraces with complex irrigation channels. After 50kms or so the road deteriorates so stopping for a cup of tea we head back, reaching Mingoara just after dark where we drive through the bazaar along a series of narrow streets the wrong way. No-one seems to mind too much, they are pretty laid back here and very friendly despite everyone looking like they’re straight off the US most wanted list. Interesting many of the locals look very European, with light complexions, rosy cheeks and light brown or red hair – Alexander the great has much to answer for.

Distance Today: 72km Trip to date: 22,211km