Day 245 Sun 17 Jun 2007 Milan to Capo di Ponte, Val Camonica

After taking Phil to the airport we head north towards Como where we pause for coffee by the lake. The hills close in quickly and there’s lots of forest. On the way we pass most of Italy out on their bikes, all in bright leotards with all the gear. Its seems a regular Sunday morning pastime but you have to look the part of course.

Como is very pleasant with nice squares, a green domed cathedral and lots of pavement cafes lining the lake front. We travel up the west side of the lake on a road that passes through tunnels and is sometimes at the lake level and often high above. For much of the route the lake shore is lined by villages which cling to the steep valley sides, often with magnificent palazzos and villas. Reaching the northern tip we head east along a deep but rather scruffy valley before turning south via the Aprica pass to descend into the Val Camonica to Capo di Ponte, which is Italy's first world heritage sites.

This one is much older than the rest, ice age, bronze and iron age petraglyphs or rock carvings. Although they are barely discernable they provide a fascinating account of life 8000 years ago, with scenes of ploughing, a man on horseback, ceremonial events and even duels. We stay at a nearby albergo run by the only gay in the village, drink campari and plan the next leg of the trip.