Day 276 Wednesday 18 Jul 2007 Andenes to Svolvaer, Norway

Andenes is a windswept small town dependent upon fish and tourists, clinging to the northern end of the Vesteralen island chain, with a mix of fishermen's cottages, small shops and sheds associated with the fishing industry. After a visit to the unusual red lighthouse we drive south along the west coast of Andoy, island hopping down the Vesteralen chain, towards the Lofotens, a series of stark and rugged mountains stretching out from the coast of Norway. It's a beautiful but slow drive past mist clad mountains, fields full of yellow and purple wildflowers and sandy beaches on a deep blue green sea, speckled with whitecaps. The journey involves queuing for several ferries, although some of the islands are now connected by bridges.

We eventually reach Svolvaer, the main town on the Lofoten Islands around 6pm and after stripping the tourist office bare of brochures (and puffins), we go in search of dinner. The half empty restaurant which advertises a daily seafood buffet doesn’t have one and doesn’t seem to want our custom so we try another on a little island, where we resort to a $40 pizza and two $15 beers - Norway is seriously expensive and despite the swarms of campervans isn’t particularly tourist friendly, at least not unless you BYO (food, grog, accommodation).

Svolvaer is surrounded by steep, craggy mountains, some with patches of snow, and a harbour filled with fishing boats and tour boats. I2 buys a puffin and is mortified to find its also on the menu, with a red wine sauce, and a jumper from a pommy barrow boy. There are lots of Rubors, red wooden shacks which originally housed the seasonal cod fishermen (which the king ordered built after he saw the men sleeping under their upturned boats – this was not philanthropy – the cod fishery produced substantial tax revenue!)