Tales of driving from Sydney to the UK; sailing from Australia to New York; cruising the Central American coast and assorted ramblings and meandering through Asia and the Middle East and North America
Well, 'the race of your life' has finally concluded for me after 20,000 nautical miles and 5 months at sea, with the good ship Nasdaq sailing under the Verrazano Narrows bridge, past the Statue of Liberty and the spectacular Manhattan skyline before tying up at Liberty Landing in New Jersey at midnight after its 2 week voyage through the Caribbean from Colon in Panama. Richard and Maggie were on hand to greet the elated but weary crew with very welcome beer and pizza, with Jane, brother Steve and Alexis and Dianne forming the official welcoming committee the following day.
The race from Panama started with a trip through the canal, a real engineering wonder and a highlight of the leg. After leaving the marina at Panama City on the Pacific side, with some of us only just making it to the boat for a 5am departure after a night of salsa'ing, mojitos and margaritas under the full moon on a rooftop bar in the old city, we picked up our obligatory pilot and joined with Clipper boats PSP and Liverpool to enter the canal in a flotilla. The first two locks at Miraflores and the single lock at Pedro Miguel passed without incident, lifting us effortlessly 16m and 9m respectively, the three yachts rafted together and entering each lock behind a large cargo ship. Lockmen high above on each bank throw lines down to us with pinpoint accuracy which we make fast and adjust as the water pours in and the level rises. Unlike the enormous container ship ahead we don't need the little 'mule' locomotives which run on a switchback railway on either side to control the big ships, but we have to be careful when the boat in front starts to move forward creating a wash fit for white-water rafting.
Unlike most canals, the Panama canal is wider than a river, with banks which resemble river banks for the most part rather than a concrete channel. There is no towpath for horses or bicycles, nor any cute little arched bridges. The central section is in fact a large lake, Gatun Lake, much of which is a national park with thick jungle. Whilst staying in Panama City we had taken the opportunity to take a jungle tour which involved a boat trip along part of the canal, stopping at some of the islands in the lake to see tamarins, capuchin monkeys, cayman (crocodiles), toucans and sloths - well the guide said it was a sloth but it could've been a pussy cat waiting to be rescued by a passing fireman from all we could make out. From the Clipper boats we didn't see much wildlife apart from mosquitos which were delighted to have a new diet of australian blood enhanced by aerogard, which they relished in its useless tropical strength formulation. Unfortunately our pilot, but not those on PSP and Liverpool, decided by mid morning after bringing us through three locks that he'd had enough for that day so he left us and promised a new pilot would be along "shortly". We discovered that "shortly" was Panamanian shorthand for "man~ana" so after the most unpleasant night of the whole voyage stuck on a buoy in the middle of the canal being eaten by mosquitos a new pilot came on board around 2pm the following afternoon and we were able to complete our transit, through the rest of Gatun Lake and down through the 3 locks to the Atlantic, this time accompanied by an enormous blue car carrier which towered over us. Coming down there are two parallel channels so it's a strange experience watching another ship alongside slowly disappearing as its lock empties and its funnel and superstructure move forward. Each lock is about 300m long, 32m wide and 13m deep according to Wikipedia and empties about 100,000 tonnes of water, a process which takes less than 10 minutes. (For those keen on this sort of thing the new ones opened in 2016 are 427m long, 49m wide and 18m deep) Eventually we completed the 77km journey to arrive at the Shelter Bay marina on the Atlantic side.
As we had to wait for all the boats to make the transit, some of which were similarly marooned in the canal overnight, we ended up spending 3 nights at Shelter Bay, an isolated former US fort about an hour's drive from the appropriately named city of Colon. With only one hotel at the marina with only enough rooms for the crew of one clipper boat, we ended up 30km away in a former CIA training facility now run as a Melia hotel. The unsuspecting hotel offered an all inclusive rate, where inclusive meant as many daiquiris as you could drink, which the Clipperati, never ones to resist a challenge put to the test.
Unfortunately all good things come to an end and we finally had to return to the boats and start racing, this time northwards, east of Jamaica, through the Windward Passage between Cuba and Haiti, and then through the islands of Bermuda and up the coast of Florida. Nasdaq had a great Le Mans start, pulling ahead of the fleet and heading eastwards to pick up the current. After a day's sailing the wind strengthened and we started sailing to windward, on a starboard tack which we were to stay on for the next five days. 45 deg sailing whilst reasonably fast is a hard slog with the boat heeled over making every move or activity twice as hard, whether chopping onions, visiting the heads or simply getting dressed. Everything has to be done one handed as unless you are sitting on the floor (or wall - it's hard to distinguish) you need one hand to hold on. Clambering around on deck where you are tethered and have to clip on with one tether before you unclip the other one is similar to rock climbing, with hand and foot holes being sought out and tested before you move positions. Sometimes you just manage to make it up the high side only to be hit by a wave which washes you back down into the cockpit, a bit like incy wincy spider. Below decks it's even worse - I managed to fall out of my bunk whilst fast asleep which resulted in a very painful sprained thumb, then I fell out of the nav station when trying to do the log, and finally at dinner slipped off the bench in the saloon, plastering spaghetti all over the walls and the rest of the crew.
The Caribbean wasn't a bit like the tourist brochures, mostly it was grey with not a white sandy beach nor a swaying palm tree to be seen. We passed close to Jamaica and thought that even if we couldn't see it we would at least hear a steel band or smell the ganga, but had to make do with Bob Marley and the Beach Boys on Spotify. Cuba 30mi to the west and Haiti even closer to the east passed unseen and the only evidence of The Bahamas was a visit from a police launch, looking like extras from Death in Paradise and a helicopter.
The crew was now much more experienced that on the first leg I joined, particularly our 8 round the worlders (RTWers). As a result the sailing was competitive with most evolutions (sail changes) being executed flawlessly. Even we leggers perfected the art of reefing the main, gybing the spinnaker and doing a peel sail change in less than 3 minutes This involves hoisting one spinnaker inside the other, then dropping the outside one by pulling it down between the boom and mainsail, bear hugging it as it comes down and pulling it down the companion way into the galley. This ensures there is a spinnaker flying at all times to avoid losing speed. In heavier winds a peel is not possible but nevertheless spinnaker changes going from a Code 2 to a Code 3 or the other way round if the wind is decreasing could still be done in less than 10 mins. This involves a lot more sail movements in sequence, starting with bringing the new sails on deck and running the new sheets then wrap net down, Yankee up, Code 2 down and pulled below, Code 3 up, Yankee down, trimming new sail then wrap net up and the yankee flaked and put away and the Code 2 which is now filling most of the space below deck in a billowing mass being sorted out, popped (ie being rolled up tightly and held in place with press-stud tapes which 'pop' when it's hoisted, allowing it to be hoisted before it fills with wind) and packed like a parachute. Bear in mind that the Codes are a similar size to a tennis court and will blow out at every opportunity, a yankee needs at least 3 people to lift it and all the while the foredeck crew are being pummelled by water cannon whilst standing on a slippery platform at 45deg and you get the general idea.
At times it seemed that Visit Seattle or Garmin were on long tow ropes behind us for days, then they or we would cut the rope and sail off on a different course. With a strong easterly wind, we kicked into high gear for the Elliot Brown sprint, a timed 180nm stretch. The wind held for us throughout and with our kite up we were able to fly though it, maintaining a speed close to 15 knots and completing the distance in the fastest time to gain a much needed 3 points. The 3 fastest boats in the sprint get 3, 2 and 1 point respectively, as do the first 3 boats through the scoring gate. However as the scoring gate involves departing from the direct course we decided for tactical reasons not to go for it and focus on getting New York as quickly as possible. The sprint was exhilarating, flying along on a beam reach with the spinnaker flying. Going on the foredeck to the bow in pitch darkness to call trim when we were doing 20 knots crashing through the waves was an unforgettable although rather wet experience.
Unfortunately the wind didn't hold long enough for us after the sprint and after some spectacular lightning storms off the Carolinas we ran into fog off Chesapeake Bay, with lighter winds. Still, the miles kept falling away and at the end of each watch, six hours during the day and four hours at night, we'd compare how we had done with the other watch (yes the competition isn't just between the eleven boats), note how many bottles of beer (ie nautical miles) remained and celebrate when we'd averaged over 10 knots which in this race with its steady winds was most of the time. After a closely fought race we stormed home across the finishing line 30nm off New York, just a little behind Garmin, very satisfied with our sprint victory.
Sailing into New York later that evening was a spectacular finale, firstly passing under the Verrazano Narrows bridge, America's longest suspension bridge, decked out with fairy lights, then passed the Manhattan skyline with the Brooklyn and George Washington Bridges off to the starboard side and the new Freedom Tower dominating the skyline behind. On the port side the Statue of Liberty was enlightening the world in magnificent fashion as the Colgate Clock at the entrance to Liberty Landing marina on the Jersey shore struck midnight. We then had a tour up and down the Hudson River for an hour, something tourists pay $100s for on a luxury yacht to see all the skyscrapers lit up, but we had for free whilst waiting for a ferry to move from our berthing spot. Finally we berthed, where our uber eats pizza, case of beer and assorted family members were waiting.
Whilst in New York, the yachts moved across to North Cove Marina at Brookfield Place, by the World Trade Centre and the 9/11 memorial for Open Boat and various corporate events. We had the opportunity, (or was it an obligation?) to visit our sponsors Nasdaq in Times Square for the opening of trade, with our boat featured on the enormous screen. Although it was a bit underwhelming as they didn't seem to really know why we were there, we enjoyed the pomp and ceremony. However, the visit to Unicef and the United Nations was far more interesting.
As most readers of these epistles would be aware, the Clipper Race is a major supporter of Unicef, the United Nations' Children's Fund, with each boat seeking to raise both money for and awareness of the aims and achievements of Unicef. In Panama I was fortunate to be included as our boat's representative on a visit to a Unicef project in the city's slum area which was building self esteem and leadership amongst a group of children and adolescents who otherwise would be likely to have succumbed to criminal gangs. As my co sailor Kathi Lind-Mottram described it in her Crew Diary, the project offers a safe and creative space for children in the area using modern dance as a tool to teach them self discipline and life skills as well as to express themselves in a way that would otherwise not be a possibility, and which offers them a way out of the cycle of crime and poverty which trap most kids in the area. (As our experience in the Salsa bar demonstrated, dance is an integral part of Panamanian culture, with skilled dancers held in high esteem). After climbing a few flights of stairs in what seemed to be an abandoned building, we emerged into a bright airy modern space with a dance studio and classrooms. The kids were welcoming and full of enthusiasm and energy. They performed a dance for us they had created and choreographed which was mesmerizing. The skill and dedication they showed underscored just how proud they were of what they were achieving. The director and teachers were passionate about what they were doing and the whole place exuded a positive energy and optimism that touched all of us who were there. We showed a highlight video of leg 7, the pacific leg to some of the younger kids who oohed and ahhed especially when they say the huge waves although their best reaction was when they saw the underwater footage of the dolphins swimming along with the boat. They asked lots of questions about the boats and the people who were on them, and Nano from Liverpool 2018 did a great job of answering them in Spanish. We all came away from the visit with a much greater appreciation of what Unicef does and how it make a difference for children in danger, working with community groups.
This was reinforced by a visit to the UNICEF headquarters in New York where again as a representative of Nasdaq I was able to participate in meetings and discussions with a number of senior representatives to learn more about the group’s activities and what it achieves. The visit was followed by a tour of the UN building as a guest of the agency. About half UNICEFs activities are related to emergency relief, responding to disasters whether natural or man-made such as earthquakes or refugee crises. For example working as a coordinator of multiple agencies, charities and governments it gets schools up and running very quickly so that education doesn't suffer such as in the aftermath of the Haitian earthquake or the Rohingya crisis in Bangladesh. At the same time it engages in longer term projects aimed at reducing the need for emergency interventions, such as building teaching capability or improvements to water supply or health care delivery. About half UNICEF’s budget comes from governments, with the balance from private donations and fund raising such as the Clipper Race. One of its recent initiatives is the “school in a box” basically everything you need to get a class of kids up and learning very quickly, packed in a small box which can be loaded on a donkey cart and taken where it’s needed when normal schools aren’t available or have been destroyed. Each of these school packs which provides the basics needed for a class of 40kids costs about $200. (See photo)
I would like to thank most sincerely everyone who has contributed to our UNICEF fund raising. So far you have helped us raise over $5000/£3000, with the Clipper crews together hoping to achieve the race target of £400,000. It really is making a difference as the visits and the videos on the Clipper site testify, If you haven't and would like to do so this may be your last opportunity so please click the links to our websites are here (Just Giving - International) and here (Everyday Hero - Australia).
With our parts in the Clipper Round the World race now at an end, it's time to reflect on what we have achieved. However this is an introspection-free zone, so there are no profound insights or deep philosophical ruminations of the sort you may find in the Rime of the Ancient Mariner or even Moby Dick, notwithstanding all the albatrosses and whales which visited us during the voyage. Although the five month journey from Airlie Beach to New York involved just 3 of the eight legs of the race, the total distance sailed was just over 20,000 nautical miles,(37,000km) which is almost exactly the circumference of the earth. However as you may have noticed Nasdaq doesn’t sail in a straight line which may account for our position on the leaderboard, so the total race is about 40,000nm, although I feel that I’ve sailed round the world several times.
Challenging, relentless, unforgiving are some of the words bandied about, along with exhilarating, terrifying, awesome, companionship, camaraderie and adventure. It was a major learning experience in a positive, self confidence building way, both about how to sail and how to put up with and adjust to deprivation, discomfort and danger. Whilst each of our boats had its share of injuries and at times was propelled as much by ibuprofen as by the wind we ourselves were fortunate to escape any serious ailments beyond a few bruises.
So what were the best bits and what will we least miss on return to dry land? Well too many of both to mention but highlights included:
the wild life, not just the albatrosses and whales but the doves which flew in from Mexico, the boobies which fought for space and landing rights on the pulpit, the green turtles which ferried gulls on their backs across the Gulf of Mexico, the seals which waved to us in Puget Sound and the flying fish and squid which regularly landed on deck.
The unbounded immensity of the oceans, the colours of the sea from the deepest black to glacier green, the sunrises and sunsets notwithstanding their acronym ‘ABS’,
the fresh bread we baked everyday and the feeling of relief when you get to the end of a watch with all the sails intact and when the skipper doesn’t come on deck five minutes before watch change over and sleep or a meal to order a reef or a sail change.
The adrenaline rush from surfing down a wave at 30knots or hanging on to the helm for dear life with the kite full and spray flying over the bow.
the stars, and the shooting stars, so many and so incredibly bright on moonless nights or during the eclipse and observing the daily changes to the moon and the positions of the stars
So what won’t be missed?
Getting excited about Porridge - who knew that it could be an accompaniment to so many things, usually in equal proportions, including marmalade, jam, Nutella, honey, peanut butter the list goes on
Preparing food or cooking or in fact doing anything at 45deg, particularly when it’s 45C or involving toilets
Getting into a bunk which has just been vacated by a large sweaty gentleman (even if he is a nice guy)
Yachty botty - no further explanation needed
Wind holes - ditto
Wet wipes - ditto
Panamanian mosquitoes
Being woken up five times a day by someone shining a red light in your eyes and saying “are you awake?” and then cheerfully wishing you “good morning” even if it’s 1:30 or 7:30 in the afternoon
Running back stays and roving preventers which even after 20,000nm still remain a bit of a mystery
So for us before returning to Oz it’s now a few weeks enjoying the sights of The Big Apple, following in the footsteps of Marlon Brando on the waterfront of New Jersey, watching the Yankees beat the Seattle Mariners at the Bronx, touring the Appalachians, exploring the country roads of the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Shenandoah River, sampling the southern hospitality of Scarlett O’Hara in Charlottesville and the crabs of Chesapeake Bay, discovering in Philadelphia why Philly Cheesesteaks are so popular and that the city has almost as many museums and art galleries as New York and learning more than we perhaps needed to know about the civil war and the war of independence on 4th July. After that it'll be time to return home and catch up with life as normal.
Soon though it will be time to start planning the next adventure - did I hear someone mention sailing to the Galapagos, walking the 3 Capes track in Tasmania or driving to Tierra del Fuego? Just keep an eye on our reactivated blog site: intrepidtoo.blogspot.com
Thank you to everyone for their support and interest in our little sailing adventure. I hope you enjoyed our ramblings and if you should ever feel at all inspired to venture across an ocean in a 70’ sailing boat with 20 strangers then you didn’t read this with sufficient care! If in any doubt please click this Youtube link
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