Nasdaq Crew Diary: Goldilocks, Russian Dolls and a Dolphin Parade
5 May 2018 Seattle to Panama
What a difference a week makes! As we approach the Mexican border (no sign of any wall yet at sea) the weather is definitely warmer and, like Russian dolls, we are shedding layers by the day. The race, or more accurately the voyage, started last Sunday in a very cold but bright Puget Sound, necessitating up to seven layers of assorted thermals, base layers, mid layers and foulies complemented by assorted hats, gloves and scarves. Today however, although we haven't yet seen much blue sky the wind has a definite tropical feel and the first shorts and sandals are starting to appear on deck. Although most are still in foulies, at least over the lower parts, everyone is starting to look much slimmer as thermal layers are peeled off and gloves and hats become optional. No doubt in a few days time this blog will be full of the trials and tribulations of the incessant heat but at this point not having to spend quite so long getting dressed and undressed at each watch change is welcomed by all.
Despite talk of wind-holes and calm seas, progress southwards has been relatively quick, and thankfully relatively smooth, with mostly spinnaker sailing as we gybe down the rhumb line – Clipper Race boats don't like sailing directly down the wind, which isn't a particularly fast way to sail anyway even if it were possible. We like the wind coming from the side or just slightly aft of the beam to make the best progress. There are now less than 3000 miles to tick off as we sail past Baja California, Tijuana and other exotic sounding places which are just beyond our vision 50 or so miles off shore.
Life on board is definitely more relaxed on this leg, compared with the North Pacific, although sailing is just as keen and trimming is a constant pre-occupation. Sailing with a kite up is quite demanding both on the helm and the team of trimmers and grinders as constant vigilance is the price for progress and the beer and hot showers which are keenly awaited in Panama.
We have been treated to more wildlife on this leg too, with most species appearing to appreciate the slightly warmer conditions. Yesterday a dove appeared; although it didn't have an olive branch it did signify that the flood might be over and land not too distant. It took up a position as look-out in our wrap net and hitched an overnight ride down the California coast, making friends with Nasduq on the way. We were also treated to the spectacle of a wave of hundreds of black and white dolphins and seals rushing towards the boat. They appeared towards the end of the afternoon as a distant line of splashes and black shapes about 2 miles away and quickly came closer in a broad wave, leaping out of the water in graceful curving arcs and passing under and around the boat before eventually disappearing on the port side, oblivious to our presence. It was a fantastic experience to see so many animals, numbering in their hundreds, with seals racing alongside dolphins in a unified pursuit of their fish suppers.
Below decks, life continues in a relentless round of watches and meals, although it has to be said that provisioning in Seattle has allowed much more variety in the diet than in China. Some of our regular readers may recall the talk about tiptoeing past the sleeping bears in a blog on an earlier leg. Well the bears are still here, mainly hibernating on the port side, and although some of the names may have changed, their snoring hasn't. There are brown and black bears, one or two polar bears and even a koala, although as we all know koalas aren't really bears at all. A few resemble much loved teddy bears which have lost much of their fur and thus their species are difficult to determine, although wearing red sailing boots and a love of marmalade identifies them as relatives of Paddington.
Living among these bears and seemingly unconcerned by their proximity are three Goldilockses: Ineke, Kathi and Kate. At least I think some of them may be Goldilocks because, having tried out all the seats in the saloon at breakfast, and the various bowls, they have proclaimed the porridge just right and always come back for seconds. Peanut butter, jam, golden syrup, honey and sultanas tend to be the favourite additives, with a few experimenting with more exotic additives such as Vegemite (voted a negative even by our Aussie crew members) and Nutella (a positive). The toast is just right too, particularly now we have resumed baking our own bread, with one Goldilocks existing solely on a diet of toast and Nutella. Tonight in honour of our arrival off Mexico on the festival day of Cinco de Mayo, we are having tortillas and chilli con carne, with promises of a Mariachi band and pintadas later – Nasduq is in for a real treat.
What a difference a week makes! As we approach the Mexican border (no sign of any wall yet at sea) the weather is definitely warmer and, like Russian dolls, we are shedding layers by the day. The race, or more accurately the voyage, started last Sunday in a very cold but bright Puget Sound, necessitating up to seven layers of assorted thermals, base layers, mid layers and foulies complemented by assorted hats, gloves and scarves. Today however, although we haven't yet seen much blue sky the wind has a definite tropical feel and the first shorts and sandals are starting to appear on deck. Although most are still in foulies, at least over the lower parts, everyone is starting to look much slimmer as thermal layers are peeled off and gloves and hats become optional. No doubt in a few days time this blog will be full of the trials and tribulations of the incessant heat but at this point not having to spend quite so long getting dressed and undressed at each watch change is welcomed by all.
Despite talk of wind-holes and calm seas, progress southwards has been relatively quick, and thankfully relatively smooth, with mostly spinnaker sailing as we gybe down the rhumb line – Clipper Race boats don't like sailing directly down the wind, which isn't a particularly fast way to sail anyway even if it were possible. We like the wind coming from the side or just slightly aft of the beam to make the best progress. There are now less than 3000 miles to tick off as we sail past Baja California, Tijuana and other exotic sounding places which are just beyond our vision 50 or so miles off shore.
Life on board is definitely more relaxed on this leg, compared with the North Pacific, although sailing is just as keen and trimming is a constant pre-occupation. Sailing with a kite up is quite demanding both on the helm and the team of trimmers and grinders as constant vigilance is the price for progress and the beer and hot showers which are keenly awaited in Panama.
We have been treated to more wildlife on this leg too, with most species appearing to appreciate the slightly warmer conditions. Yesterday a dove appeared; although it didn't have an olive branch it did signify that the flood might be over and land not too distant. It took up a position as look-out in our wrap net and hitched an overnight ride down the California coast, making friends with Nasduq on the way. We were also treated to the spectacle of a wave of hundreds of black and white dolphins and seals rushing towards the boat. They appeared towards the end of the afternoon as a distant line of splashes and black shapes about 2 miles away and quickly came closer in a broad wave, leaping out of the water in graceful curving arcs and passing under and around the boat before eventually disappearing on the port side, oblivious to our presence. It was a fantastic experience to see so many animals, numbering in their hundreds, with seals racing alongside dolphins in a unified pursuit of their fish suppers.
Below decks, life continues in a relentless round of watches and meals, although it has to be said that provisioning in Seattle has allowed much more variety in the diet than in China. Some of our regular readers may recall the talk about tiptoeing past the sleeping bears in a blog on an earlier leg. Well the bears are still here, mainly hibernating on the port side, and although some of the names may have changed, their snoring hasn't. There are brown and black bears, one or two polar bears and even a koala, although as we all know koalas aren't really bears at all. A few resemble much loved teddy bears which have lost much of their fur and thus their species are difficult to determine, although wearing red sailing boots and a love of marmalade identifies them as relatives of Paddington.
Living among these bears and seemingly unconcerned by their proximity are three Goldilockses: Ineke, Kathi and Kate. At least I think some of them may be Goldilocks because, having tried out all the seats in the saloon at breakfast, and the various bowls, they have proclaimed the porridge just right and always come back for seconds. Peanut butter, jam, golden syrup, honey and sultanas tend to be the favourite additives, with a few experimenting with more exotic additives such as Vegemite (voted a negative even by our Aussie crew members) and Nutella (a positive). The toast is just right too, particularly now we have resumed baking our own bread, with one Goldilocks existing solely on a diet of toast and Nutella. Tonight in honour of our arrival off Mexico on the festival day of Cinco de Mayo, we are having tortillas and chilli con carne, with promises of a Mariachi band and pintadas later – Nasduq is in for a real treat.
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| Plain sailing |
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| JC and Dinner |
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| Morning calm |
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| Pacific Sunset |
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| Dolphin spotting |
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| Duck winged |
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| Action stations at the Le Mans start |
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| Trying to find a patch of shade |
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| Gathering storm |
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